Installation instructions must be followed for the warranty to be valid.

Owner and/or installer will take full responsibility for all products installed. Industry standards allow for a 5% allowance in grade, in each box. If you do not like the look of the piece, do not install it. This 5% is not valid under product warranty.

Tools & Accessories
Tools and Accessories that you will need for installing your Hand Scraped Solid Sawn Engineered Flooring:

Nail Down: Table Saw, Miter Saw, Measuring Tape, Nail Set, Hammer, Tapping Block, Nail Gun (Manual or Pneumatic), Square, Chalk Line, Vintage Putty Fill, and Vintage Cleaning Kits. Model 210 Pneumatic Powernailer with 2” L-Type Power Cleats Nails (or equivalent). You will also need a broom and dust pan.

Glue Down: Table Saw, Miter Saw, Measuring Tape, Straight 1”x 2”x 8’ length of wood, Nail Set, Hammer, Tapping Block, Square, Chalk Line, Vintage Putty Fill, Trowel, Cleaning Solvent and Vintage Cleaning Kits. You will also need an approved moisture cured glue – See your Vintage Dealer for authorized glues.

NOTE: It is extremely important that you use the proper trowel to ensure maximum coverage and produce a good bond between sub-floor and flooring. You may also require a 100-150 pound roller.

Floating Floors: Table Saw, Miter Saw, Measuring Tape, Hammer, Tapping Block, Square, Chalk Line, Vintage Putty Fill, Vintage Cleaning Kits, Vintage T.G White Glue, 1/8” (4mm) Foam with Vapor Back, Mineral Solvents (for cleaning glue), and Shims. You will also need a broom and dust pan.

Glue Down Application – Step by Step Instructions

Step #1 – Mark your starting line
Vintage Hardwood Flooring recommends that your Hand Scraped Solid Sawn Engineered Flooring be installed parallel to the longest, straightest wall in the room. Start by measuring out from the wall 35-3/4” (908mm). These measurements allow for 3/4” (19.5mm) expansion gap. Using a chalk line draw a guideline parallel to the wall based on the above measurements. This will eliminate any ripping of material at the end of the job for the last row.
Using the straightest pieces of 1”x 2”x 8’ length of wood and 2-inch concrete nails or screws, fasten the strips to the concrete. Your first row of starter boards will butt against this, so make sure that the strips are in line with the chalk line because this will determine how straight your floor will be.

Step #2 – Spread the adhesive
NOTE: Vintage Hardwood Flooring will only guarantee installation when a moisture cured glue is used. Do not use latex based glues. Apply the recommended adhesive with a trowel according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions (found on adhesive pail) for the specific adhesive that is being used.
SPECIAL NOTE: Open time on adhesives vary from manufacturer to manufacturer so read instructions carefully before starting. Opening time can also be affected greatly depending on the temperature and humidity.
The trowel should be held at approximately 45 degrees to the floor when spreading the adhesive. This will give you the recommended spread rate of approximately 40 to 50 sq.ft. per gallon, depending on the adhesive manufacturer. Only spread adhesive over an area that can be covered in less than 1.5-2 hours, otherwise the adhesive may become dry and lose its ability to bond.

Step #3 – Install the strips
You should inspect each piece of Hand Scraped Solid Sawn Engineered Flooring before installation. Boards that you may not like the look of, or with a flaw that you think will affect the look of the floor should be used as the cut pieces for your start and/or end pieces. You may also choose to put these pieces in less conspicuous areas such as closets or under couches, etc.

Start your first piece with the tongue facing the area that will be completed last. Line up the tongue of the boards against the holding strip, and then press the board into the adhesive. Working from left to right, lay the next board and continue working towards the right, until you reach the wall and require a cut piece. Choose one of the pieces set aside for cutting and cut the desired length.

NOTE: If you are cutting a piece that has not been set aside for cutting, make sure it is long enough to yield your next rows starting piece. Leave 3/4” (19.5mm) between the wall and the end of each strip in each row (see Fig.#2).
Start the second row with a strip of at least 6” (150mm) longer or shorter than the strip used in the first row. This will eliminate unsightly step effects (see Fig.#3). The remainder of the floor should follow this rule to insure an aesthetically clean looking floor.

Minimize glue from getting into the tongue or groove, otherwise, the strips of the flooring may not fit tightly. If glue gets on the finished side of the strips, clean immediately with appropriate cleaning products - see your Authorized Vintage Dealer.

Hand Scraped Solid Sawn Engineered Flooring pieces may require slight tapping in order to ensure a tight fit. You may use 3M’s blue tape (if required), to hold pieces together until glue bond has developed.

If a roller is required to obtain maximum adhesion, wrap a foam sheet around it to minimize any damage to the surface of the floor. When you get to the end of the wall, you may require a pry bar to get the pieces tight. Use shims where required until the glue has dried.

Step #4 – Installation of Accessories & Cleaning

After the floor has dried, you may install the baseboards and quarter rounds. Make sure that the nails penetrate the wall and not the floor.

NOTE: Always keep left over pieces for future use. Flooring may become damaged and require replacing several pieces. It’s a good idea to have the same production dates put aside.

Use a vacuum to pick up any dust and loose fibers. Using your Vintage Cleaning Kit, available at all Authorized Vintage Dealers, follow instructions and mop the whole floor.

Floating Application – Step by Step Instructions

Sweep and vacuum the sub-floor before laying any material. Make sure that any high points in the sub-floor are removed, cleaned and sanded.

***When installing over a wood sub-floor, you should install your flooring perpendicular to the joist to avoid any sinking between the floor joists.

Step #1 – Laying the under pad
Roll out a flexible acoustic cork or foam insulation under pad material (see your Authorized Vintage Dealer) onto the sub-floor. Make sure the under pad is butted edge to edge, joining the lengths at the edges with a clear adhesive tape, and leaving a gap approx 1/4” (6mm) round the edges of the room butting up to the walls. If the insulation material selected is not effective against dampness rising from the sub-floor, put down a layer of 6mil polythene sheeting first. Vintage Hardwood Flooring provides a 4mm foam under pad that has a vapor backing. The shiny (vapor side) should be facing down against the sub-floor.

Step #2 – Laying the wood floor
Using the longest pieces available, lay the first row against the longest and straightest wall. Carefully apply glue (see Fig.#4) to the upper edge of the tongues along the whole length of the piece, using Hand Scraped Solid Sawn Engineered Flooring adhesive (available at your Authorized Vintage Dealer) specially designed for Vintage’s Hand Scraped Solid Sawn Engineered Flooring. Lay the first piece with the grooved edge against the wall. If the wall is not square, use wedges/shims between the flooring strips and the wall to achieve the desired 3/4” (19mm) expansion gap.

Start the second row with a strip of at least 6” (150mm) longer or shorter than the strip used in the first row. This will eliminate unsightly step effects (see Fig.#3). The remainder of the floor should follow this rule to insure an aesthetically looking floor. Clean any glue that gets on the finished side of the flooring before the glue dries.

Hand Scraped Solid Sawn Engineered Flooring pieces may require slight tapping in order to insure a tight fit. You may use 3M’s blue tape, if required, to hold pieces together until glue bond has fully developed.

Rip the strips for the last row to the required width, not forgetting to allow for expansion. Use a crowbar to insure tight fitting boards, use shims to hold in place until glue has dried. Remove the wedges 24 hours after laying.

Step #3 – Installation of Accessories & Cleaning
After the floor has dried, you may install the baseboards and quarter rounds. Make sure that the nails penetrate the wall and not the floor.

NOTE: Always keep left over pieces for future use. Flooring may become damaged and require replacing pieces. It’s a good idea to have the same production dates put aside.

Use a vacuum to pick up any dust and loose fibers. Using your Vintage Cleaning Kit, available at all Authorized Vintage Dealers, follow instructions and mop the whole floor.

IMPORTANT
As the work proceeds, take care to leave the expansion gap along the walls and around any obstacle (pipe work, foot of stairs, post, fireplace etc.).

Nailed Down Application – Step by Step Instructions

Special note for all nail down applications:
You must use a Pneumatic Powernailer with 2” L-Type Cleats (or equivalent). Consult your Authorized Vintage Dealer for the equivalent nailing equipment.

Step #1 – Mark your starting line
Using a chalk line, draw a guide line out from the starting wall at 7-3/4” (197mm). This line is where your first strip of flooring is going, and also allows for the 3/4” (19.5mm) expansion gap. It is very important for the starting line to be straight and square (seeFig.#5).

Although Vintage Hardwood Flooring takes every precaution to ensure that Hand Scraped Solid Sawn Engineered Flooring is graded and shipped to industry standards, we suggest you inspect each piece of Hand Scraped Solid Sawn Engineered Flooring before installation. Boards that you may not like the look of, or contain a mark that you think will affect the look of the floor should be used as cut pieces for your start/end pieces. You may also use these pieces in less conspicuous areas such as in closets or under couches, etc.

Step #2 – Install the strips
Face nail or glue the first row of strips with the grooved side facing the wall; put the nails as close to the wall as possible, this way the quarter round will cover the nail heads. You may have to face nail (see Fig.#6) for the first few rows before there is enough room to use the nail gun. It must be nailed down by hand rather than with the hardwood floor-nailing machine because of the vertical wall obstruction. When clearance allows the use of the hardwood floor nail gun, you may start using the nail gun. Nails should be spaced a minimum 2” (51mm) from both ends of the boards, and all other nails are spaced 8 - 10” (203 - 254mm) apart.

Measure and cut the strip to the required length to finish the first row. The remaining section should be used to start the second row, in order to minimize cut waste. The strip selection for completing the first row must be long enough to yield a remaining section of adequate length. Leave 3/4” (19.5mm) between the wall and the end of each strip in each row.

The subsequent rows must be installed in the same manner. Don’t be afraid to waste a few strips in order to adjust and test the nailing machine.

See Hand Scraped Tips

When you reach the last few rows, you may not be able to complete these
rows with the nail gun, due to vertical obstructions. Toe nail, face nail, or glue the last remaining rows.

NOTE: You may have to rip the last strips along the wall in order for them to fit properly. Don’t forget to leave 3/4” (19.5mm) minimum space for expansion.

Step #3
Finally, install the transition pieces, baseboards and/or quarter round moldings. Following the initial installation, vacuum thoroughly and clean the floor with your Vintage Hardwood Cleaning Kit.

*For detailed installation guidelines for your specific installation, contact your Authorized Vintage Hardwood Flooring Dealer.